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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Short boxy jacket

Let's draft the pattern for this trendy jacket.

It's short, cropped at waistline, with a relaxed fit and classic single breasted buttoning and collar.

You can use any suiting fabric, but even play with different ones as denim, or very feminine ones as heavy satin or taffeta for different styles ;)

Start from a basic block without darts and at least 14cm ease on bust circumference.

You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Trace a copy of back and front, then on both:

  • raise shoulder point by 1cm
  • draw the new shoulder line passing through it and 1 or 2cm longer than the original one
  • redraw the armhole to the new shoulder point.
Step 2

Extend front shoulder line toward center front and measure 2 to 2,5cm on it.

Extend waistline past center front for 2cm (button stand) and connect this point to the previous one: this is the roll line (where lapel folds back).

Step 5

Square up from this line as the back collar width you want (we suggest 7 to 9cm), then draw the front collar/lapel shape.

See highlighted in red the collar piece – trace it separately.

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