Short jacket with puffed sleeves


Let's draft together the pattern for this cropped jacket featuring statement sleeves.

It also has a double breasted front with side zipper, collar and waistband.

Especially if you plan to sew it in leather or fake leather, we suggest to sew a muslin/mockup first to test the fit and the sleeve shape. Sewing on those materials is not very easy because it's almost impossible to rip a wrong seam (the needle holes will remain) and pinning/basting is very hard. We use clips to hold pieces together when going to the sewing machine. Also, you cannot press the seam, but you can topstitch the seam allowance to hold it in the direction you want ;)

Step 1

Start from a basic block with wearing ease (minimum 10-12cm across bust&waist circumference).

Shape center back reducing 2cm at the waist and blending it at the upper back.

Draw a slash line on front to manipulate the dart (5-6cm on the shoulder line up to bust point).

Step 2

Measure the same amount on back shoulder and draw a matching slash line. Discard the dart in it.

Trace the two back pieces (center and side panel) separately.

Step 3

This is the front with the new shoulder dart (close the previous one and cut through the shoulder slash line).

Divide the dart into 2 smaller ones and draw one more slash line to create a side panel.

Remember to check the pattern waist circumference and compare it to yours to make sure you like the ease.

Step 4

Mirror the center front to draw the double breasted part.

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