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Slip dress with bias skirt

4.5/5

Style analysis: long asymmetric dress with spaghetti strap, deep V neckline and slanted stylelines. Bodice is made of 3 pieces on front and 2 on back and is cut on grain, skirt is flared and cut on bias.

Fabric: light to medium weight woven fabric as satin or crepe. It can be made of silk, polyester or blended but should be a flowy fabric. Solid color works best with bias cut, unless you want to add details with different print direction.

Draft a countoured dress (with darts and zero wearing ease). Our method for drafting it on personal mesaurements, as well as a full explanation on fitted garments is covered in our basic blocks course/module 2.

 

Step 1

Trace front, adjust length and mirror it to have the full shape.

Highlight underbust line, then make sure wist darts are 3cm wide at waist and underbust.

Step 2

Trace back, adjust length and mirror it to have the full shape.

On back, drop 2cm from armpit points along side seams and 3cm more in center back, draw back neckline slightly U shaped.

On right front side seam, drop 2cm from armpit, then draw the neckline:

  • raise to highest point (where shoulder strap starts) that should be approx 9 to 11cm above bust level and 4 to 5cm inwards from armhole
  • from this highest point, draw a line to center front approx at bust level (or a little higher/lower if you prefer), this is going to be neckline depth
  • lengthen the line all the way to left side seam
  • widen right shoulder dart by 1cm at new neckline to make it tighter to chest.
Step 3

Mirror upper part of front bodice to draw neckline and widened dart on left part.

Now draw the other slanted stylelines:

  • on front, start on right side seam 4cm below waistline and end on left side seam approx 7cm below hipline (you can change the slope of this line as you like it)
  • still on front, draw a line parallel to the previous and approx 15cm below it.

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