First, lengthen front and back to mid calf and flare 10 to 16cm from sides, blending to zero at hips or waistline.

Measure down 6 to 8cm from armpit along front side seam and connect to bust point: this is the line for manipulating shoulder dart. Cut through this line and close shoulder and waist darts.

Mirror front to have it full and cut through waistline to separate bodice and skirt.

• Eliminate dart on back bodice by taking 2cm from center back – blend at neckline – and 2cm from side – blend to zero at armpit.
• Square down from dart apex on back skirt, then cut through the line and close dart flaring the skirt.
• front bodice has darts manipulated into french darts.
• Square down from both dart apexes on front skirt, then cut through the line and close darts flaring the skirt.

See how the pattern changes with all these manipulations!

Merge bodice and skirt at side, then trace a copy of the pieces by filling the volume.