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Square shoulders shirt dress

4.5/5

Let's draft together the pattern for this unusual shirt dress.

It's an interesting manipulation with a boxy shape at top: drop shoulder and loose fit at bust, pleats at waist that create skirt panels. Plus, a two pieces sleeve.

It's a good pattern drafting exercise!

You can sew it in any medium weight slightly stiff fabric as denim.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts.

Step 1

Trace a copy of your basic block with darts and manipulate shoulder line first:

  • raise back shoulder line by 2cm
  • drap from one by 2cm
  • extend both lines by 8 to 12cm, then drop the outer edge by 1,5cm on back and 2cm on front.

More details of drop shoulder patterns are in our Basic Blocks course – check it here if you didn’t join yet!

Step 2

Here is a focus on shoulder area.

Close front shoulder dart by 1/3 of its width – as the dress should not be too tight at the high bust.

Drop armhole by 7 to 8cm and move armpit point outwards by 3 to 5cm on both back and front.

Step 3

Draw the new shoulder/armhole/side line: it should look like this.

Step 12

Add a 2 pieces collar and your pattern is ready!

For side slits, we suggest joining main pieces at side seam to draw half a U on back and half on front and still being sure you like the final shape 😉

Step 13

If you sew it in denim or similar fabric, we suggest to topstitch all lines 😉

Depending on the fabric you might want to add a lightweight interlining to outer cuff, collar and button stand.

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