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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Square shoulders shirt dress

Let's draft together the pattern for this unusual shirt dress.

It's an interesting manipulation with a boxy shape at top: drop shoulder and loose fit at bust, pleats at waist that create skirt panels. Plus, a two pieces sleeve.

It's a good pattern drafting exercise!

You can sew it in any medium weight slightly stiff fabric as denim.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts.

You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Trace a copy of your basic block with darts and manipulate shoulder line first:

  • raise back shoulder line by 2cm
  • drap from one by 2cm
  • extend both lines by 8 to 12cm, then drop the outer edge by 1,5cm on back and 2cm on front.

More details of drop shoulder patterns are in our Basic Blocks course – check it here if you didn’t join yet!

Step 2

Here is a focus on shoulder area.

Close front shoulder dart by 1/3 of its width – as the dress should not be too tight at the high bust.

Drop armhole by 7 to 8cm and move armpit point outwards by 3 to 5cm on both back and front.

Step 3

Draw the new shoulder/armhole/side line: it should look like this.

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