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Statement shoulders jacket

4.5/5

Let's see the steps to draft the pattern of this 80's structured blazer.

The construction is interesting as it has padded shoulders with built-in, dolman-like sleeves. We decided to create it with 2 front panels to keep it fitted to the waist.

The jacket features also a deep V neckline without lapel.

Leather, vinyl, upholstery fabrics or any stiff one will work. Some structure can be added with fusible or non fusible interlining, if the fabric requires some support.

Start from a basic block with appropriate wearing ease (minimum 10-12cm at the bust).

Step 1

Reshape the center back moving 1-1,5cm inwards at the waist, blending at the upper back.

On both front and back draw the panels and the square cut: measure 2-3cm on the shoulder line from the high point shoulder, draw a slanted L that end in the side seam 5-7cm below the armpit.

On front, draw the button stand, the slash line for manipulating the bust dart  and the new neckline.

Step 2

Cut through all lines.

Close the existing bust dart on center front.

You get 3 back pieces (center back, side back panel, shoulder piece) and 4 front ones (center front with previous dart closed, 2 side panels, shoulder piece).

Mind to keep all notches (waist, armhole, bust).

Step 3

Get a basic sleeve whose cap is already checked with the armhole.

Cut the sleeve in its center (the line that comes from the shoulder notch downward).

Mind to keep the cap notches.

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