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Statement sleeve jacket

4.5/5

Let’s draft together the pattern of this jacket or short coat with statement sleeves.

Any slightly structured fabric will work. This is a boiled wool, but you could use different fabrics adding weight – if necessary – with a fusible or non-fusible interlining.

Step 1

Start from a basic block with appropriate ease allowance and shoulder dart. Choose the length (around 9-12cm from the waist, but depends on your height and the style you prefer).

Draw the double breast button stand (7-8cm) and mark (with + and – the button and buttonhole position).

On both front and back draw the panels and the slanted dart manipulated between them.

On front, draw the pocket from the panel cut toward center front and draw the line for manipulating the shoulder dart into a dart ending at the panel.

Step 2

Separate the pieces discarding the waist darts and manipulating the shoulder one. You get: center back, side back panel, side front panel, center front.

On front draw the facing line (1,5-2cm bigger then the double breast, so the button fits in).

On both front and back draw a parallel to the shoulder line 3cm inward and a line similar to the armhole 3cm from the shoulder point, merging in the armhole before the side panels start.

Step 3

Cut through the lines.

Merge the two shoulder pieces to create a yoke.

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