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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Structured mini dress

Style analysis: vibrant, bold mini dress made of a structured fabric that gives it volume and shape. It features a deep, plunging sweetheart neckline that creates a dramatic and elegant silhouette. The bodice is fitted with classic princess cut and bones, and the waistline is accentuated with a prominent bow detail at the center. The skirt has a sculptural tulip shape, creating a modern and chic look.

Fabric: silk faille or taffeta, eventually underlined with double or triple organza to give structure without adding weight. The bodice requires vertical boning in the seam lines and a shaped wire to hold the neckline.

Step 1

Trace your contoured dress (= dress with darts and zero wearing ease).

Adjust length above mid thigh or to desired measurement, then cut through waistline to separate bodice and skirt.

On both front and back skirt, add 8 to 12cm past side seam and square up to halfway between waist and hip. From this point, draw a steep curve to waist at side seam. Try to have identical curves on front and back.

Redraw skirt part of darts ending to a point that is approx halfway in skirt width.

Step 2

Trace a copy of front and back skirt, both are cut on grain so that hemline is perpendicular to grainline.

Use the same pattern to cut underlining.

Step 3

Now get bodice and:

  • draw the new neckline: drop 1 to 2cm from armpit at side seam, then draw back neckline dropping 2cm further in center back
  • draw front neckline starting from a matching point at side seam, then raise to have at least 8cm above bust point at dart, then draw the plunging neckline (maximum depth is to a point that is halfway between underbust and waist, maximum width is 2cm at underbust level)
  • widen front shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline to make it tighter to chest
  • make sure front waist dart is shaped at underbust to match underbust circ
  • widen back dart by 0,5cm on each side at the new neckline.

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