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Top with cutouts & statement sleeves

4.5/5

Let's draft the pattern for this stunning piece that can be used as a top or, if cutouts are not your thing, layered on top of a shirt, t-shirt or thin knit.

The most interesting part for us patternmakers is the built-in, dolman sleeve with gusset and pleats at cuff.

There's also an interesting dart manipulation at the neckband.

To draft the pattern start from a basic bodice with darts and 8cm ease at bust circumference.

You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.

Step 1

Trace a copy of back and front bodice to hipline, then:

  • widen neckline by measuring 2 to 3cm from high shoulder point along shoulder line
  • redraw back neckline keeping original nape point or dropping it by 1 to 2cm
  • change front neckline giving it more of a U shape (you can drop 11 to 17cm in center front)
  • draw the neckband 8 to 10cm wide from center back to front. Try to make the line passing through bust point.
Step 2

On front, measure 7 to 9cm from center along bottom neckband line and start drawing a curve from there to side seam, 4 to 6cm below waist level.

Draw a second line that, on side seam, start 5 to 7cm below the previous and ends in center front.

On back, draw 2 lines matching measurements on side seam and dropping something like 1-1,5cm more in center back.

Step 3

On back, draw underbust line, measure dart width at underbust and discard that amount from center back, blending to zero at neckline.

On front, draw underbust line from side seam to first curved line – cutout ends approx at waist dart.

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