Start by drafting a contoured bodice if you want it to be tight or a block with 2 to 4cm ease on all circumferences – check our modules 1 and 2 for our method of drafting made to measure patterns.

Shorten to 12 to 14cm below waistline or desired measurement, then on front

• draw the sweetheart neckline from center front 3 to 4cm above bust level, then 6 to 9cm above bust point at shoulder dart, ending to side seam 1 to 2cm below armpit level
• draw the shaoed underbust line that delimitates the gathered section. Start in center front 3 to 4cm below bust level, curve downwards reaching waist dart 7 to 9cm below bust point and continuing straight to end in side seam
• draw the shoulder strap starting from neckline outer part, few cm before armhole, and ending on shoulder line with 1,5 to 2,5cm width.

Then move to back:

• draw the neckline from 1 to 2cm below armpit level (match to front) at side seam to 1 to 2cm more in center back
• draw the underbust line straight from side seam (match position to front) to center back
• draw the shoulder strap matching width and position to front.

Now work on back. Cut through the lines to separate the pieces, or trace separate copies so you get:

• shoulder strap – shorten longer edge by 0,5 to 0,8cm so that upper edge is horizontal and not slanted, this little trick will make it tighter to your shoulder. Grainline is parallel to center back
• upper bodice, grainline parallel to center back
• center back, grainline parallel to center back
• side back panel, grainline parallel to center back or perpendicular to waistline.

Waist dart was discarded in between center back and side back panel, but a small section of it is still included in upper back piece.

Trace 2 copies of upper back piece:

• one copy will be the inner layer, close dart on it and blend lines if needed
• the second copy will be the outer layer, gathered, so we need to add volume. draw evenly spaced slash lines every 3 to 4cm and cut through them. Space pieces by 2 to 5cm depening on the gathers you want and trace a copy of the whole new piece.

On both pieces (inner and outer upper back) grainline is parallel to center back.