Let's draft the pattern for this stylish dress.
It features a tulip skirt that gives its best when realized in slightly stiff, structured fabrics as taffeta, faille...
It also has a cross front bodice with dart manipulation, short dolman sleeve and front slit.
Start from a basic block with darts and little wearing ease (as 4cm on each circumference).
Trace a copy of skirt part, mirror the front and draw the slash line for slit/overlap on it.
Taper front and back skirt reducing 2cm at hem from the sides, blending to hip line.
Replace the darts with pleats – keep the same depth but move them toward side seam.
Cut on front slash line and tapered side seams, then mark the pleats on side back and side front. Close the dart on the cut part of front, as it cannot have a pleat.
Merge back and front skirt by matching the hem point on side seams. Keep the pieces spaced by 2-3cm at hip line.
Redraw the skirt as one block, marking also the pleats where the side gap was.
There is an inverted pleat here, while the ones that replaced darts are knife pleats.
Center back will be on fold and on grain, keep a line on center front to know the right overlap when sewing.
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