Vest with shoulder cutouts


Let's draft the pattern for this trendy vest. The main characteristics are cutouts at shoulders, peak collar and rounded sides from waist to hip.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts with 4 to 8cm ease at bust (depending if you want to wear the vest directly on the skin or layered on a shirt), 4 to 6cm at waist and hip circ.

You can sew it in almost any medium weight woven fabric - we suggest crepe + heavy satin/duchesse for the lapel part.

Step 1

Trace a copy of back and front, then identify the new slash line for pincess cut: measure 5cm from high shoulder point along shoulder line on both back and front, and connect the point to dart apex. On front, shoulder dart will be manipulated in this line.

On front, extend waist line by 2cm past center front, adjust the length to 25cm past waistline, then draw the rounded hemline.

Cut through waistline to separate bodice and yoke on back and front.

Step 2

Notice that on front bodice shoulder dart was manipulated in the new slash line.

Move 2 to 3cm further along shoulder line to draw the cutout on both back and front.

Reshape front waist dart slightly as a rocket better to fit breasts at underbust.

Cut through slash lines on bodice, discard both darts and cutouts and separate the 4 pieces (center back, side back panel, side front panel, center front).

Step 3

Now work on yoke. Draw the slanted line 14cm long on front for pocket, then draw a parallel to it for pocket flap.

Split front dart into 2 smaller ones making sure they end before pocket line.

Split also back dart in 2 darts that are 8 to 10cm long.

Make sure total dart measurement remains consistent to the original construction.

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