Let's draft together the pattern for this jacket. It is perfect also for blouses and tops, or for a cocktail dress.
It features a wide neckline, cape-like collar, a pleated waistband and a yoke.
Start from a basic block with darts and minimum wearing ease 4 to 6cm at bust, waist and hips circumference (but select the wearing ease always according to the fit you like, your body measurements and the fabric you are using). You also need a basic sleeve with matching measurements.
The perfect fabric is something slightly stiff as taffeta or heavy satin.
You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.
First, draw the waistband on front and back: it is a section 5-7cm above the waistline and 2-4cm underneath it.
Then draw the double breasted front from hem up to the waistband, and the neckline from this point to the shoulder tip on front only. As we always do for very open necklines, widen the shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline.
Cut through the lines to separate all pieces. You get front and back bodices, waistbands and yokes.
Now get the waistbands and close the darts.
Fix the shape by smoothening out any angles where you closed the darts, then divide the waistband into 3 horizontal sections by drawing 2 slash lines where you will create the pleats.
Trace a copy of waistbands (you need one copy with pleats and one – which will be the inner part – without) and cut it though the lines.
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