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Wrap dress with cutout and pleats

4.5/5

Let's draft the pattern for this vintage-inspired dress. The most interesting details are the styleline mimic a lapel shape on front bodice, the back cutout and the pleated skirt on back only.

In this type of woolen fabric it would be perfect for a spring ceremony or event, but you could sew a summer version in a lighter fabric.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic dress with darts.

Step 1

Trace a copy of back and front, adjust the length to 3/4, flare both skirts by 5 to 10cm at side seam, then:

  • on back, mark waistline and square down from dart apex. Cut through the lines
  • on front, add 8 to 10cm past center front for double breasted closure, then draw the V neckline from high shoulder point to waistline. Draw the slash line coming from dart apex perpendicular to hemline.
Step 2

Get back bodice and draw the slash lines for cutout discarding 2cm in center back. Make both lines ending at side seam approx 3cm below armpit, and make sure bottom line passes through dart apex.

Separate skirt pieces by adding space for pleats:

  • 5cm at center back waistline and 10cm at center back hemline
  • 10cm at dart waistline and 20cm at bottom of slash line.

Trace a copy of the skirt.

Step 3

So, on back you have:

  • upper bodice
  • lower bodice with dart closed
  • skirt, with pleats.

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