Start by tracing a copy of your basic bodice without darts and 10 to 12cm wearing ease on bust circ*, then:

• widen neckline: drop 0,7 to 1cm in center back, widen at shoulder lines by. 1 to 1,2cm, drop 1 to 1,5cm in center front
• drop armhole level by 5 to 7cm
• widen at armhole level by 4 to 7cm (total ease at bust should be at least 24cm)
• widen at hipline to have a measurement at least 1cm bigger than the one at bust (for a slightly flared effect)
• drop a parallel 4 to 8cm below hipline, this is hemline
• draw side seam connecting hip point to armpit point, then extend line downwards to new hemline.

*our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks and for fitting them are included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

On both back and front raise 2 to 3cm from shoulder point (as green arrow), then connect new point to new high shoulder point – you get that red line. Lengthen it 6 to 9cm past shoulder, then drop 1 to 1,5cm as orange arrow and draw the new shoulder as the orange line, so that shoulder is sligthly shaped.

Draw the new armhole on both back and front.

Notice that curves are much flatter than original ones, and that there are at least 6cm ease at shoulder blade level (i.e. distance from original armhole to new one should be at least 6cm in armhole middle section).

Measure back and front new armholes and note down the measurements – we’ll need them to draft the sleeve.