Trace a copy of your contoured block, front and back separate.

On both pieces adjust length to ankles (or to desired length).

On back:

• reduce 2cm at waist in center back, blend to zero at neckline and hipline
• balance the reduction in center by reducing dart width (dart becomes smaller)
• from armpit level drop 1cm along side seam and 3cm in center back, then draw back neckline connecting the two points.

On front:

• mark a point 1cm below armpit on side seam
• measure 7 to 10cm above bust point on both shoulder dart lines (measure on yourself how much coverage above breasts you want)
• draw the new neckline from armpit to dart points, then perpendicular to center front
• widen shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline to have it tighter to chest.

Cut through new neckline, then:

• on back, reduce dart width (in our example to 2cm), then square down from dart apex to skirt hemline
• on front, highlight underbust line and make sure waist dart is 3cm wide from waist to underbust.

Cut through back slash line discarding dart volume: you get center back and side back panel.

On front, draw the slash line from dart apex to hemline and get ready to cut through it.